Capurgana and Colombia’s Sleepy Seaside Villages along  La Darien Pass

Capurgana and Colombia’s Sleepy Seaside Villages along  La Darien Pass

Colombia’s Northern Caribbean coast wraps around the Bay of Trigana and the Gulf of Uraba up up to the Panamanian-Colombian border. This remote coastline is  dotted with little forgotten villages only accessible by boat. This is Colombia’s long forgotten Choco - a department running along the Pacific, across the  Panamanian border and along the Atlantic. Under developed and forgotten by the government Choco is a quiet, lawless and one of the most fascinating departments of Colombia.

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This thin strip of land is also known as the Darién Gap is a dense, dangerous rainforest between Panama and Colombia. It is home to several tranquil villages offering unique experiences for travelers seeking natural beauty. It is also known for treacherous terrain, wildlife, and criminal activity and  has been a perilous route for migrants crossing continents.

On the eastern Bay of Trigana the mainland villages of Turbo and Necocli easily connect to Medellin and Cartagena by bus. The airport in the city of Monteria, the capital of Cordoba,  connects the southern Caribbean coast to Colombia.

Passanger boats leave daily from Turbo and Necoli enroute to the small coastal fishing and farming villages along the bay. The boats pull into small public docks in the villages. And the villages without docks the lanchas or small boats meet the larger boats in open waters to unload passengers and cargo.

All the the villages are situated between the jungle and the beach. The buildings and makeshift huts are constructed with palm thatched roofs and  planks cut from the adjacent mangrove swamps. The eletricity and the water come and go during the day and night. And on the dusty dirt roads people and farm animals lumber along making way for the occasional passing motorcycle.

Capurgana

Mainstream tourism on the bay is concentrated  in the village of Capurgana - a  bustling village near the Colombian/Panamanian border flush with lodgings, restaurants and night life. Capurgana sees tourism all year long but is heavily populated by tourists during the holidays.

Accessible only by boat or small aircraft, Capurganá is a car-free village offering a peaceful and comfortable retreat from urban life. The main beach in Capurganá is perfect for relaxing, with its calm waters. Visitors can swim or simply relax with a cocktail on the beach.

There are also enough activities in and around town to keep one busy for a few days.

Hiking trails lead to nearby inland jungle attractions such as the El Cielo Waterfall, where travelers can enjoy natural pools and observe diverse flora and fauna.

Another 45 minute hike from town leads to La Coquerita a rustic, eco-friendly area where there are two natural pools built into the rocks where the waves splash over the outer walls and the seawater runs in and out.  There is a little restaurant on site selling beverages and patacones with decks and tables.  Entrance fee is 10,000 cop or $2.50 per person

Or one can take a one hour hike or catch a boat ride from the dock in Capurgana (10,000 cop  $2.50) to to Bahia Aguacate where there is a nice beach.

Sapzurro

A hour hike from Capurganá leads to the village of Sapzurro, nestled in a picturesque bay. There are several beaches in Sapzurro which is perfect for relaxing in warm, calm, wave-free waters.

If one is looking for a quieter, more laid-back and less touristy place than Capurgana there are plenty of restaurants, hotels and hostels in Sapzurro.

From Sapzurro, travelers can cross a hill to reach La Miel, a Panamanian village boasting one of the area’s most beautiful beaches, characterized by white sands and crystal-clear waters.  La Miel is the last stop before the trail leads into the impenetrable jungle of La Darien.

Be sure to bring some i.d. or passport as there is a sleepy border guard at the top of the hill who won’t let you pass without at least a photo of your i.d. There’s a duty-free shop in La Miel where one can purchase tax-free liquor and beach clothing. Restaurants on the beach serve fish for lunch with cold Panamanian beer.

To get here one can hike from Capurgana or take a boat from Capurgana to Sapzurro or directly to La Miel. There are lots of boats going back to Capurgana in the late afternoon leaving from the docks of Sapzurro and La Miel.

Acandí

But perhaps the best kept secret in the bay of Tigana are the villages belonging to the municipality and village of Acandí. The area is renowned for its pristine beaches, vibrant biodiversity and laid-back vibe of peace and utter tranquility. It is a wonderful corner of Choco protected by the Darien Mountains and known for its unparalleled peace and relaxation.

Playa Soledad

To the north of Acandi, visitors can take a boat to explore Playa Soledad, a secluded beach known for its white sands and crystal-clear water perfect for snorkeling. The town’s proximity to various natural reserves also makes it ideal for eco-tourism. To get here it’s a 4-hour hike from Capurgana or one can take a 30-minute boat from Capurgana costing around 35,000 cop or $8. One can also get there by boat from the village of Acandi

Trigana and San Francisco

Trigana and San Francisco are two serene villages located within the municipality of Acandí. These villages offer visitors a chance to experience unspoiled natural beauty, rich biodiversity, and authentic cultural

Trigana

Trigana is a remote coastal village south of Acandi. It’s renowned for its stunning natural landscapes, including white sand beaches and clear blue-green waters. The area is also home to coral reefs that shelter schools of colorful fish, making it a paradise for snorkeling and diving enthusiasts. 

There are a number of good hostels in the area. Walking north there is nice valley leading to some freshwater pools and waterfalls. Further north a walk through the jungle filled with holler monkeys leads to an isolated beach.

Nature lovers can explore the Sasardí Nature Reserve, a 60-hectare area encompassing primary forest and regenerating lands. A loop trail from Trigana leads to the reserve after a one-hour walk, culminating in a breathtaking view over the vast Darién jungle bordered by the Caribbean Sea.  It’s advisable to have a local guide accompany you on this journey. 

San Francisco

San Francisco is a small village located just south of Trigana and even more laid back with a small rastafa expat community. One can walk to the village from Trigana via a path along the beach – about a 45 minute walk.  Boats from Capurgana and Turbo will also leave you on the dock of  San Francisco.

From town one can get a local guide to go into the jungle and up the mountains behind the village to see El Bosque de los Gigantes where there are a number of giant Sampan trees. It’s a  3-4 hour hike and the guides ask for 40,000 COP to 50,000 per group..

There are more hostels in San Fransicso and most come with breakfast and lunch as there are no restaurants in the town. There are a few little stores selling the bare minimum of supplies depending on recent shipments there is a small  variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, meat and fish. A few beachside bars offer cold beer and bottled water.

 The Chocó region is known for its cultural diversity, with influences from Afro-Colombian, Indigenous, and mestizo communities.

Travel Considerations

Visiting Trigana and San Francisco offers a unique opportunity to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of modern life and immerse oneself in Colombia’s rich, unspoiled, natural beauty and cultural diversity.

Both Trigana and San Francisco are relatively remote and may lack extensive tourist infrastructure. Travelers should be prepared for basic accommodations and amenities. It’s recommended to hire local guides for excursions to ensure safety and gain deeper insights. Electricity is usually available from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. aand many establishments have limited solar backup.

How to Get There

Boats leave daily, usually in the a.m. for Capurgana and the other villages from both the towns of Turbo and Necocli. Turbo is to the south of Necocli about an hour bus  ride away. Turbo is more of a port town and the docks where the boats leave from is out of town. Necocli is more of a tourist town with nice beaches and the docks are right in town.. Necocli is closer to Caurgana about an hour boat ride away while Turbbo is further, 58 miles or 92 kilimeters and a longer boat ride about 2.5 hours. I prefer departing from Necocli but some destinations like San Fransico con only be reached directly from Turbo or Capurgana.

*Necocli to Capurgana is 95,000 cop

*Necocli to Trigana is 75,000 cop

*Necocli to Acandi 85,000 cop

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